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Welcome to the Porters Sports Blog. We will try to keep you up to date with our Lake Tahoe thoughts and also rants about other stuff too.

Porters Sports

Monday, October 26, 2009

A week in Peru



So we arrived in Huaraz, Peru last week Monday. Our friends Alli and Nate met us here a couple days later. We took a couple days to acclimatize by doing day hikes and going mountain biking in the area. The picture below is over Huascaran Sur, the tallest mountain in Peru, over 23,000 feet, towering over the town of Huaraz. Our first hike in Peru was to a lake called Laguna 69. The hike started around 12,000 feet, and the laguna sits at about 15,200 feet. The crystal clear blue waters of the lake are fed directly from the glaciers melting from the peak that towers about 6,000 feet higher! It is really deceptive in pictures, but the scale of everything in the Cordillera Blanca is huge, the biggest mountains I´ve ever seen by far. Incredibly tall and steep, there are few skiable lines on most of these peaks, but I´m sure there are a few lurking out there. The shot below shows Laguna 69 and towering peak. It is the beginning of the rainy season in Peru, it rains everyday, not necessarily for the whole day, but for at least a couple of hours every afternoon. This makes for interesting mountain travel as we found out later on. Another activity that is popular in Huaraz is "mountain biking". Since I love to ride my bike I just had to try Mountain biking in Peru. The craziest part of our ride was negotiating the bustling streets of Huaraz to catch a ride in a collectivo up to the start of our ride. Since there seem to be no rules regarding driving in this country, it is hard to predict what drivers are going to do. Another interesting part of riding in Peru is the incredibly old and janky mountain bikes. I know that I´m a bike snob, but it´s been years since I´ve ridden a hardtail, and even longer since I´ve ridden without real(clipless) pedals. Check out the picture below to see a Peruvian bike rack. Those bikes are leaned up against each other and held to the roof with rope...for a 40 minute drive up a dirt road! And it worked, no problem, they certainly do more with less in this country. "Mountain Biking" in Peru is basically riding on dirt roads as far as I can tell. Our 3,000 foot downhill ride basically followed a lightly used road through really small villages. Riding on the dirt roads was alright though due to the nature of the old and frightening equipment we were using. In the shot below I´m cruising through one of the small villages, you can see a Peruvian woman dressed in the traditional clothing that the mountain farmers seem to wear. The mud brick buildings are also the typical structures that you see once you leave the cities.



After taking a few days to get used to the high elevation we decided to do the Santa Cruz Trek. This hike traverses the Cordillera Blanca mountain range from east to west and goes over a pass at 4750 meters(15,700 feet or so). In the Parque Nacional Huascaran this is often a guided trip that takes 4 days with donkeys to carry all of your gear. Since we are cheap we went without a guide and without donkeys. Since we´re super tough we also decided to do it in 3 days, 2 nights. At 50 km´s long (31 miles) we figured it shouldn´t be a problem. Normally it doesn´t start raining til about 3 in the afternon, but the day we started our trek it was raining all day. Luckily for us we bought these sweet ponchos that covered us and our backpacks. We may have looked like fools, but we stayed dry, and so did all of our gear. The fist day we hiked for 5 hours and camped up at around 14,000 feet.

The first night in the mountains was cold, and during the night some of the friendly and curious high alpine peruvian cows decided that we were really interesting and hung out around our tents, occasionally sniffing and licking them. They joined us for breakfast too...

That morning we hiked up and crested Punta Union. At 4750 meters this is the highest I´ve ever been in my life. This brought us from the east side of the Cordillera´s to the west side. In the picture below you can just see the bottom of the massive glaciers that cling to all the peaks around here, unforunately stubborn clouds didn´t allow us to enjoy all of the scenic beauty of the area, but what we were able to see was incredible. Coca leaves help fight the effects of high altitude, and the local people drink them as tea and chew them like tobacco. Who am I to go against tradition. In the afternoon of our second day the skies opened up and we were able to see the majestic peaks towering way, way above us. Steep and gnarly, and covered in glacial ice. It was really impressive to see, and makes me want to come back when some of these might have good snow for possible ski descents.....On the third day we woke to clear blue skies and view for days, a truly incredible place.The Cordillera Blanca are the 2nd tallest mountain range in the world, the harsh environment is unforgiving and the wild cows, horses and donkeys often succumb to the weather. We found these skulls balanced on a rock as we hiked down the Santa Cruz Valley towards the village of Cashapampa. While we sufferd through some crappy weather that hid the beauty of the high peaks from us, the blue skies that we had on the last day of our hike more than made up for it. The descent out of the Cordillera´s continued to dazzle us with breathtaking scenery.


At the end of our trek we had to get a collectivo to the town of Caraz, and another to Huaraz. The car we got into at the end of our tek was a 17 year old toyota corolla wagon. We fit 10 people and 4 huge backpacks into this one car for the hour and a half ride down bumpy dirt roads to the town of Caraz, just another example of the resourcefulness of the Peruvian people.



From here we are headed to Huanchaco to get a little sun and hopefully some surf in this quiet beach town. Supposedly there are some great beginner waves, which sound great to me since I´m a complete novice. From there we´ll be off to Mancora for more beach time, and then to Cusco to hike the Inca Trail and see Machu Pichu, one of the seven wonders of the world.


Comments:
Blogger Vi
Great pics and descriptions...We will be going in November. I can't wait.
V. Gibbons Amit Middle School Orange
 
Anonymous Anonymous
Hey Jeremy! It's Tara. Your pictures are great. Hope you guys are having a great time! No snow yet, so don't panic. Tell everyone I said hi.
 
Blogger Jerem's mom
Jerem,

LOVED the photos! It looks just like I have imagined!

I am glad you were able to hike the HUGE mountain range.

Enjoy and send more entries when you can.

Love,
Your mom
 
Blogger the gradvisor
Hi Jer! Looks amazing... thanks for sharing the photos. Don't forget to take your AlpineAid!
love, BR
 
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