Posted 10:16 PM posted by Jeremy Benson /
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I recently spent about three weeks in Europe skiing around and checking out the scene. I must admit that my mind was blown. I never really understood what Chamonix was all about until I experienced it for myself. Luckily I had a friend to show me around or I wouldn't have gotten into any of the cool lines that I did. Here's a few memorable moments and the photos that go with them.
Climbing to your line is often the most exciting part of the day. Using two ice axes at the same time does not seem ridiculous... In the photo below we're climbing 55 degree snow, exposed over a 100 plus foot cliff above a huge broken glacier... not your average climb, unless you're in Chamonix.
The mountains are huge and covered in glaciers. Steepness was redefined for me on this trip. Take the photo below for example. I'm skiing pow on a 45 degree face about halfway down the line, blowing a turn would result in a 1500 foot ragdoll. Falling is not an option pretty much anywhere in Chamonix. Once at the bottom of a line like this you have to ski through a massive cracked glacier and underneath the super huge hanging seracs that are all around.Moving through the mountains is a little different in Cham than other places. Sidestepping through rocks is one thing, sidestepping, sideslipping, rappelling, and climbing all over rocks pretty much every run is what you may get into. The photo below is of some pretty average manuevering, and don't fall.... Once again, falling is not an option. Dropping into a line like the Cosmiques without a rope, on "firm snow" (ice),with a little exposure beneath you is definitely an acquired taste. My buddy Dave really likes the way "you fall you die" skiing tastes... Skiing with ropes and using them (not for rescue) is really fun. Adding the dimension of ropes into your skiing opens a lot of doors as to what is possible and accessible. Plus, ropes are heavy in your pack and it would suck to ski around with it all the time if you didn't use it... Dave raps into the fun zone next to the heart of the Rond, remember, rocks are vertical. The scale of the mountains in Chamonix takes a little getting used to. Around Tahoe we ski 50 degrees for a hundred feet at a time, in Cham you ski 50 degrees for 2,000 feet and there 2 begschrunds at the bottom. If you get off on being scared while you're skiing, then Chamonix might be the place for you. In any event, I had a great time and I'd highly recommend travelling to Europe to go skiing to anyone. Not only is the ski experience different but the culture and lifestyle is also very different. Smoking cigarettes, eating cheese and lots of chocolate is the norm, and somehow everyone is skinny, I could get used to that....
Posted 9:57 AM posted by Jeremy Benson /
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After our first day in Verbier it started snowing. It snowed quite a bit at the highest elevations of the ski area, so we headed out once it cleared to check out some of the other easy to access, "sidecountry" at Verbier. Right off the bat we headed up to the top of the Mont-Fort, 3300 meters, 10,000 feet. The view from the top of Verbier is pretty incredible, and in the photo below you can see the top of the Mont-Fort Tram with the imposing Northeast side of Bec de Rosses in the background. I didn't ski the Bec while we were there, but in the future I'd love to take the big hike up there and see what its all about, but there was just too much good snow all around...The skiing "inbounds" at Verbier is great, but the resort was pretty skied up prior to it snowing, so it didn't get completely smoothed out. The hikes off the backside of the Mont-Fort, however, were quite smooth before it snowed and the endless terrain was really fun to get out and explore. The photo below shows just a little part of the area that is accessible, and your adventure is completely dependent on how far you are willing to hike. We skied primarily on the big faces in the photo below. Those pitches are about 2500 feet long.... Did I mention that the snow was incredible? Blower powder and faceshots were abundant, and I had a hard time not laughing out loud as we cruised the huge untracked powder faces. In the photo below, Lynn crushes some low angle waist deep pow after negotiating the steep cliff riddled face behind her. The skiing was really, really good. We skied as hard as we could and enjoyed every last minute of our time in Verbier. Here, Lynn hikes past an old church way up in the mountains. There are a lot of old buildings and crazy scenes up in the Alps, the kind of things that you'd imagine you might come across while skiing in Switzerland. But we had a train to catch, so we didn't waste any time getting out of Verbier to head over to Chamonix to meet up with our friends Dave and Rosanna. We packed up our stuff and got on our way to the steep skiing mecca of Chamonix, France. The train ride itself is spectacular. The train winds its way up into the heart of the Alps, going through tunnels, small Swiss and French villages, and past huge glaciers and valleys, eventually stopping in the bustling ski town of Chamonix. Its my first time here and the scale of everything here is pretty mind boggling. In the photo below, the Aguille du Midi is on the left, and some of the huge hanging glaciers that are common around here are visible in the middle and on the right. The top of the Aguille is 9,000 vertical feet above where this picture was taken to give you an idea of just how big these mountains are... We didn't want to waste any time or beautiful weather so we got up early the next day and headed to the Grand-Montet to go on a tour out to the Glacier Grand. The backcountry skiing scene in this area is unlike anything I've ever seen before. People from all over Europe, and of all ability levels are out in the mountains going all over the place. I wasn't really ready for the masses of people you see walking all around on the glaciers in these huge mountains. The photo below is an example of the popularity of "randonee" skiing in the Chamonix valley. Its no mystery why so many people are getting out there though. These mountains are so amazingly beautiful that it would be foolish to not get out and enjoy them. In the photo below Dave and Rosanna hike up from the Argentierre Glacier on our way up to the Col du Passon. The peaks in the background are a stunning backdrop, and yes, some of those lines are skiable, when there is enough snow... Lynn makes her way up the last bit of the hike to the Col. The glacial travel around here is pretty incredible and can also be quite treacherous. Most people carry an avalanche shovel, probe, beacon, rando rope, harness, ice screw, prusicks, rapelling device, ice axe, and crampons. Needless to say, my pack is a little heavier than usual... This area is truly incredible, and we are psyched to be here, now lets ski some more pow... Fortunately, the winds overnight didn't affect all the snow out there, and Lynn finds some more of the light stuff on our way to the Glacier Grand. After skiing a little we strapped the skins back on and hiked another hour and a half or so up to the Col above the Glacier Grand. From there we got an 8,000 vertical foot run down to the town of Trient. We checked the map and found a cool variation down the mountain and got out of the main Glacier run that most people do. It was pretty much 2 Alaska heli runs stacked on top of each other, truly amazing. In the photo below Lynn skis out below the seracs at the bottom of the Trient Glacier, this kinda stuff is just your run of the mill, day out on the mountain here in Chamonix, but a completely mind blowing and new experience for me. And in classic euro style we end up miles and miles from where we started. The run we skied is off the peak on the far left of the photo below, and now we're in Switzerland... From here its a bus ride to the train station to catch a train back to Chamonix. Lucky for us our friends have a Raclette cooker at their place and for dinner we ate cheese, and lots of it. Several years ago while I was heli skiing in Alaska my guide told me, "you think these mountains are big, you should go to europe, it is way bigger than this.". I didn't really believe him, until now
Posted 5:29 AM posted by Jeremy Benson /
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I was supposed to spend the entire day in Newark, NJ yesterday on a layover on my way to Europe. Thankfully my flight got delayed so much that they had to reschedule. Spending the day choking on pow was way better than sitting in the airport. Here's a few clips from yesterday morning.
Posted 9:03 PM posted by Jeremy Benson /
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Ah the East Side. There's really not quite any place else like it on earth. For the past 2 weeks my friends and I have taken full advantage of the mild high pressure conditions and have gone after some of the loftiest summits in the state of California. This weeks goals were Split Mountain and Birch Mountain. Both located just outside of Big Pine, CA, these peaks are separated by only a couple of miles. Basically, Split is west of Mt. Tenemaha, and Birch is north of Tenemaha. You even use the same system of dirt roads to reach both "parking areas". In the photo below my friend Oscar sets out on the "trail" toward Red Lake on our way to Split Mountain, 14,058 ft. I always love the juxtaposition of the desert and the snow, it wouldn't be the east side if you didn't do a little desert walking...About three hours, and a variety of minor issues, we reach Red Lake and catch the first glimpse of our objective. From here the summit is only a mere 4,000 vertical feet away... We came to ski the fabled East Couloir, which becomes visible as you approach the base of the peak. Our ascent route is visible in this photo, and it is the very thin ribbon of snow on the lookers right of the peak, known as the St. Jean couloir. About an hour later we're still about an hour from the bottom of the couloirs. The East Couloir coming into view on the lookers left, and the St. Jean, in the center of the photo. The scale of things down here is really deceptive. What looks like a short distance often turns out to be much farther and steeper than it seems...Here is a view of our primary descent objective, the East Couloir. On a big year this line has a 70 foot rappel over an ice bulge at the bottom, this year it has about a 400 foot rappel over ice, rock, more ice, more rock... it just isn't that filled in, so we changed our plan. Maybe we'll come back and tag this classic line another year.So we head up the St. Jean couloir in hopes that the snow will be good in this aesthetic, steep, skinny couloir. About a quarter of the way up we find about a half inch of water ice on top of the snow in the chute, fine conditions for climbing in crampons, not so sweet for attempting to ski down. Here's a view looking up the chute....
And here's my view looking down. This chute was no joke, really steep, pretty narrow, and with beautiful rock walls top to bottom. You can also see the Owens Valley, only 9,000 feet below us here.
Eventually the crew made it to the summit of Split Mountain. Andrew, Oscar, Duncan and myself are all pretty wiped out at this point. We'd explored all of the ways down the mountain that we weren't willing to go down, so we opted for the "easy" way down, which we had to pretty much figure out as we went. It turned out to be pretty decent skiing, and far less life threatening than either of the other options we'd explored that day.About 11 hours after leaving the car that morning we returned safe and sound. 7,500 vertical foot runs are lots of fun, especially when you carry ropes and harnesses most of the way for no good reason, I guess we all could use a little extra exercise...In any event, skiing Split Mountain was something I've wanted to do for a while, and I'm thankful to my friend Andrew for providing the motivation I needed. Hopefully the next time I head that way there will be appropriate snow conditions for getting after the more aggressive lines.
One of the best parts of spring skiing down on the east side of the Sierra is the camping. Camping in the desert way out on some dirt road in the middle of nowhere at the base of beautiful 13 and 14 thousand foot peaks just can't be beat. In this shot Mt. Tenemaha dominates the evening skyline. Split Mountain sits just behind that, and Birch Mountain is just visible on the right of the photo. Our next objective was the summit of Birch Mountain, and as usual this mission started with a healthy little dose of desert walking. In the photo below Oscar makes his way towards the snow just after leaving the car at the end of the dirt road at 6,500 feet. The summit of Birch Mountain is 13,658 ft., so the climb and the ski run are 7,000 vertical feet. Unlike Split Mountain, Birch is not set back on the crest, so the fall line is quite a bit more direct making for a quicker climb and a much quicker descent, depending on your route. Birch Mountain is on the right, Mt. Tenemaha is on the left. Its hard to tell from the photo, but Birch is 1,000 feet taller than Tenemaha.About a third of the way up the mountain and I can't get over the contrast of the snow and the desert. Here Oscar is bootpacking up with the snow and the desert making things interesting in the background.
Our goal on Birch Mountain was to get a 7,000 foot corn run. The south facing slopes were nice and smooth and the winds were out of the north keeping our chances for excellent conditions high. We'd viewed the south side of Birch Mountain from the summit of Split 2 days earlier and this is what we saw. In the photo below you can see the south side of Birch, the peak on the right. We ascended roughly on the lookers right skyline to the summit, and dropped in just to the lookers left of the summit down the really aesthetic 3,000 foot long south facing gully. The rest of our run is obscured by ridgelines in this photo, but it was really fun.
Near the top of Birch the views were pretty phenomenal, here Oscar skins with Split Mountain dominating the skyline behind him. Our descent route from two days earlier is visible in this shot. Again, it is hard to capture the scale of everything in a photo, these mountains are absolutely enormous...After about 5 and half hours we reached the summit of Birch Mountain and were awed by the view. The Palisades to the North, Split Mountain and the other high peaks to the south was just too much for my camera to take in. My computer almost exploded when I downloaded all the photos, and in fact I lost about 40 shots in the process. Oh well. Luckily, Oscar captured a shot of me on the summit of Birch scoping out the downclimb to get into the line we wanted to ski.
The High Sierra is a great place to call home, if only for a few days at a time....
Posted 2:37 PM posted by Jeremy Benson /
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Monday 3/15/10. Today I figured I would be milking it, skiing some not that great wet pow. Turns out that the snow on north facing slopes was still nice and cold, stable, and skiing great. Surprised at our luck finding such great snow conditions and a virtually untracked Mt. Tallac, my friend Jon and I set about the task of trying to put tracks down all of our favorite lines. Luckily we have different favorites, so we barely even crossed each others tracks. In the photo below, Jon drops into one of the steepest chutes in the Tahoe Basin, in perfect pow, and he proceeded to ski it better than I've ever seen it skied. After that we took our pick of the front face chutes before heading back to the top for another lap. We dropped in on a completely untracked Cross, 2 days after the storm, I was shocked that no one had skied it yesterday. From the summit of Tallac its an uninterrupted 3,000 foot run to the bottom, steep at the top and progressively mellower and rolling near the bottom. By the time we skied our second run the snow was already beginning to turn and what was great steep powder dropping in was variable but creamy pow from about halfway down. In the photo below Jon drops into the steeper skier's right entrance of the Cross, nothing but sweet cold snow with surprisingly little wind affect. Needless to say, there were still fantastic conditions to be had out there by those willing to find them. While todays high temps will have baked our snow out even more it seems like we might be into a corn cycle within just a few days, not to mention that this is perfect weather for working on your goggle tan...
Posted 3:49 PM posted by Jeremy Benson /
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As it was finally starting to get a little ugly around here we got just what we needed. Somebody hit the refresh button, and just like that we've got six new inches of good quality snow to smooth everything out. With a bit of a nagging foot injury I can't really ski anything but really smooth snow, so I headed up to Mt. Tallac today to see how the snow was. The recent snow has made the skining conditions much better and more grippy making for a much easier climb than you would have found out there a few days ago. Only three people were out there in front of me today, and I thank them for a great new skin track. I was also impressed by their especially gnarly drop-ins to the top of the cross, way to get after it whoever you are. Luckily for me, two of my favorite ski runs in the world were completely untracked... While the new snow was very stable it was sluffing pretty fast, not deep, but fast. The sluff made me a little tentative, but I still had a great time up there today. I toyed around with a new GoPro POV set up today and I was pleased with the results. I basically mounted the camera on the top of a telescoping ski pole which I securely strapped to my pack. In the future I think I might try and put it up a little higher, it was a fun experiment nonetheless. I must warn you that the video is a little long...
Posted 10:05 PM posted by Jeremy Benson /
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Over the past couple days we've gotten a bit of new snow. Just enough to freshen things up a bit and make some of my favorite lines in the backcountry nice and fresh again. And everyone knows that I love to ski low angle pow. Today we headed out to one of my favorite zones and found exactly what we were looking for, fresh turns. We battled with some difficult visibility and waited for a while to get this "window". This short video clip is from one of the runs I took today, Sunday 2/7/10. HOTG. Notice, when I pull up in the middle, the freight train of sluff that flies by, good thing I wasn't in its way...
Posted 10:16 PM posted by Jeremy Benson /
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Over the past week we have received around 8 feet of snow in Lake Tahoe. Not record breaking by any means, but we have had one of the best weeks of skiing ever! Not only did it snow 8 feet, but we've had consistently good skiing the whole time, and for the past couple of days we have enjoyed the most stable snowpack that I have ever seen. So stable that I can hardly believe it, yet I have tried to take full advantage of it. With thin cloud cover and consistent light snow for the past two days we have enjoyed all-time powder conditions on south facing terrain. Normally I avoid south faces after storms but this cycle has allowed us to enjoy powder conditions in places that I never thought possible. The Lake Tahoe backcountry has been going off, giving up some of the best conditions in history. Sure I've got sore toes, shin bang, whiplash, and a broken finger, but that's all water under the bridge. I'm not sure how many more of the best days of skiing of my life I can have, but it seems like everyday for the past week has been just that. I'm sure I can find a little room in the old memory bank to store a few more.....
Here's a couple clips from yesterday and today, two of the best days of skiing that I have ever had. These are a couple of the good runs I had, the really, really good ones are safely tucked away in my brain, just for me. And, by the way the song, so fresh so clean, is describing the snow, not me...
Posted 7:26 PM posted by Jeremy Benson /
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For the past several days I've been in Portland, OR attending the 2010 athlete/design forum for Columbia Sportswear. The forum is a great opportunity to provide feedback to the designers of Columbia outerwear. This is the third year of the design forum and just another example of Columbia's commitment to continuous improvement in their outerwear design and innovation. The designers are usually pretty excited to hear what we have to say since we abuse their gear on a regular basis, something they don't have a chance to do while working in their offices.
The promotions manager at Columbia basically babysits the professional ski team while we are up in Portland, and she also ensures that we have a good time without accidentally burning down the city. This year we got to sample some of Portland's finest cuisine. Portland is a beautiful and culturally diverse city and we ate at a few of its landmark eateries. The Greek food at Alexis greek restaurant was outstanding, the Thai food at Pok Pok was the most authentic I've ever experienced, but the donut I ate from Voodoo donuts was the best donut I have ever had. In the heart of downtown Portland, Voodoo donuts is well known for its extensive menu of gourmet donuts, many with raunchy names. With everything from fruit loops and crumbled oreos to peanut butter on their donuts, their masterpiece donut is the maplebar with bacon. I wish there were words to describe how good this donut was, but I fear that my limited vocabulary would not do it justice.
My trip wasn't just about eating and meetings though. We spent an afternoon up at Mt. Hood Meadows skiing some thin cover dust on crust. Apparently it has been raining a lot recently, and my afternoon on Hood certainly helped to reaffirm my love for skiing in Lake Tahoe. Even though we had a great time ripping around up there, its just not quite the same.... But they sure do have some colorful sunrises.
Posted 10:04 PM posted by Jeremy Benson /
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For a few years now I have hoped that I might eventually have a taller heel riser for my Marker Duke bindings. Finally my prayers have been answered. I recently acquired a set of the new "long" heel risers. The difference is pretty substantial as you can see in the following photos.
The new taller heel riser is on the right, obviously. The difference is truly amazing, taking pressure and strain off my lower back and hips, making skinning uphill easier and more comfortable. Anyone who has felt that the heel risers were too short on their Dukes should get their hands on a set a.s.a.p.
With new and improved Duke heel risers views like these are much easier to come by. This is the view to the south from the summit of Jakes today...
Posted 10:45 PM posted by Jeremy Benson /
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Twelve inches overnight and today the skiing was off the hook. Alpine Meadows was deserted except for the usual suspects and lots of tourists. Who'd've thought that a full parking lot means all day freshies? Anyway, check out this shot of my friend Mike Vaughan hitting a 40 footer today, booyah!Today I also learned a valuable lesson, only put Lithium Batteries (like the instructions say) in your GoPro camera. Regular batteries last for about 2 minutes and might screw up your camera, go figure. I used mine for a few runs today and here's a quick clip from a sweet double I hit today. It was too much fun skiing at Alpine Meadows today!
Get some and have fun out there, Happy Holidays!!!
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